How did a Canadian reporter end up living in rural Wales?

Toronto-born journalist Nancy Durham spent decades reporting from international conflict zones, from the Balkans to Iraq.
Consider what the opposite of that job might be. How about becoming a self-taught lavender farmer on what Durham calls a “wild, windswept Welsh hilltop?”
Durham didn’t see starting the first commercial-scale lavender farm in Wales as an antidote to the misery and turmoil she’d reported on for years. Yet, that’s how it turned out.
“It was just such a contrast from all the unhappiness in the world to create the farm,” said Durham, 73, via a video link from her cozy cottage kitchen. “But you know, it was all accidental and it’s rolled out beautifully because it gave me yet another career when I was least expecting it.”
How did a Canadian reporter end up living in rural Wales? Durham said in a 2025 profile that “love and adventure” brought her there more than 40 years ago.
She met Canadian-born Oxford philosopher of science Bill Newton-Smith in 1981 at a party in Toronto. That was the love part. Adventure kicked in a couple of years later when she moved to the UK in 1984 to be with him. Durham reported from global hotspots for various broadcast outlets, including the CBC and the BBC.
The couple divided their time between Durham’s London flat, the medieval university town of Oxford where Newton-Smith was teaching and the small farm cottage he owned in Wales near Bannau Brycheiniog National Park.
Durham said her first impression of the cottage was that she was walking into “a wreck.” She was smitten.
“No electricity and candle wax everywhere, melted on everything, because that was how it was lit,” she said. “It was very romantic and very rustic and rugged and gorgeous. And it still is.”
After they expanded the acreage surrounding the hilltop cottage in 2003, they considered raising sheep, the most common use for area farmland.
They went in a more fragrant direction instead. They planted about 3,000 Grosso lavender shrubs along the hillside that year and harvested the first crop the next summer.
The couple were also the first business in Wales to distill lavender oil, using it to make creams and balms for a new business that became Farmers’ Welsh Lavender. The aromatic and minty Gorsso lavender works well in Farmers’ products because it suits everyone, Durham said. “What we do is for men, women and anybody in between.”
When she compares her small yield to the millions of plants at a typical lavender producer in France, Durham affectionately calls Cefnperfedd Uchaf (Welsh for “tucked in behind the ridge) a dinky farm.
Small works for her. With spectacular views across steep green hills and the deep valley from the cottage’s perch 1,100 feet up, who needs a million lavender shrubs to tend?
They didn’t really know what they were doing when they began, said Durham. A $50 book on lavender farming from a Texas grower got them started. The still they bought to extract the lavender oil came with instructions. Presto, says Durham, she could add running a still to her resumé.
“Distilling is an elegant, simple and beautiful process. I did all the distilling initially and still do most of it,” she said.
With input from fellow Canadian journalist and magazine publisher Tyler Brûlé, Durham settled on the simple name Farmers’ for the body care line, with a tractor for the logo.
Durham has a true fondness for her neighbours, the ruddy-cheeked sheep farmers who do hard work on hillside farms. They were the first to embrace what became Farmers’ hand cream when she did a talk on growing lavender at a local pub. The overwhelmingly male audience tried her cream on their faces and hands. They liked it.
“Afterwards, the men came up to me and said, ‘Now my hands don’t smell like silage,’ that frightful, smelly stuff on a farm,” she recalled.
“I had this real aha moment when I came home that night and I thought: Farmers’ hand cream. Why don’t I make Farmers’ hand cream?”
In 2020, she and Newton-Smith bought a two-bedroom cottage in the nearby market town of Hay-on-Wye. They used the time during lockdown to set up a retail outlet for Farmers’ in the attached shop.
Durham has run the farm and business on her own since Newton-Smith’s death in 2023. The body products and dry goods like aprons and bags are made locally. She has a staff of 18, most of whom are part-time. The steep slope means everything is accomplished by hand on the farm, including harvesting, which is done with serrated sickles.
There’s also a resident feline on the payroll, a handsome tuxedo cat named Bandit.
Hay-on-Wye is famous as a “town of books,” and a booklovers’ paradise. There are more than 20 bookshops, most of them independent retailers, along with used booksellers. Each May, one of the world’s biggest literary festivals is held there, with more than 500 events, including talks by prominent authors.
“It’s great. It’s international,” Durham said of Hay-on-Wye and the sophisticated, fun and artsy book lovers that flock there. “You get all kinds of interesting people from around the world.”
The Farmers’ shop fits in well with the town’s indie retail spirit. “This is the flagship. We have a little store on the farm and hold makers’ markets there, but that’s it. I don’t want a chain of stores,” Durham said.
Which isn’t to say Farmers’ isn’t experiencing some top-level success. Guests at London’s legendary five-star hotel The Savoy get a Farmers’ product on their pillow as part of nightly turn-down service.
With farm stays growing in popularity, Cefnperfedd Uchaf farm has expanded to include a shop and café. A moving truck was transformed into a stylish stay, complete with a king-size bed. There’s also a Nordic sauna and hillside pond for swimming.
Belmond, the company that operates the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, brings passengers to Cefnperfedd Uchaf as part of its three-day Britannic Explorer sleeper train journey through Wales. Guests can wander in the lavender fields, stop in the café and even take a dip in the pond on a hot day.
Durham spends most of her time at the farm. There are occasional trips to London. She has a May holiday planned with some friends. Cefnperfedd Uchaf is where she finds joy and plenty of laughter with her neighbouring farmers.
“The town and farm, they’re the family. They are so wonderful,” she said.
In an unsettling time of geopolitical conflict, being a Canadian in Wales carries some cred, especially after Prime Minister Mark Carney’s speech at the World Economic Forum Annual Meeting in Davos in January.
“I had people coming up to me and saying, ‘Oh, it must be wonderful to be Canadian.’ And I’d have to stop and think, what are they talking about? But of course, it was his speech, it had such a magnificent impact around the world.”

Keeping a Look Out for ‘Peaky Blinders’

Who would have thought the ruthless, real-life Peaky Blinders gang would become hometown heroes in Birmingham, the U.K. city where they once ran riot? All it took was 100-odd years, the birth of screen-based tourism, and the creativity of Birmingham writer-producer-creator Steven Knight, who spun family stories of his dad’s larcenous bookmaker uncles into a popular Netflix series.

Who would have thought the ruthless, real-life Peaky Blinders gang would become hometown heroes in Birmingham, the...

Here's where Canadians are travelling this summer

A recent YouGov survey done for Flight Centre Travel Group Canada showed 37 per cent of those polled were prioritizing domestic travel this year. The World Cup is a big domestic summer tourism driver as host cities Toronto and Vancouver welcome some 350,000 fans each.

The event is “an unprecedented opportunity,” Destination BC says, showcasing Vancouver for one of the globe’s most-watched sporting events. Destination BC hopes to entice soccer fans to see places outside the cit...

Montreal makeup artist Donald Mowat made Emily Blunt look bad — and she loved every minute of it

Montreal-born makeup artist Donald Mowat is happy to swap the glittering Academy Awards ceremony in his adopted hometown of Los Angeles this month for a makeup trailer on a Vancouver hit TV series set. Mowat, a 2021 Oscar nominee for makeup and hairstyling on Canadian filmmaker Denis Villeneuve’s blockbuster Dune: Part One, is on location in Vancouver, w...

Pop Rock and Pinot Noir: A Transplanted Canadian in Japan

“I think I’ll be living here for the rest of my life,” says Blaise Plant. He’s not talking about his hometown of Ottawa. He’s referring to his adopted home near Sendai, the capital city of Miyagi in Japan’s northern Tohoku region. Plant is part of a growing winemaking industry in this part of the country, proud to be the first officially licensed Canadian farmer in Japan.

This is not his only job: Plant is also a founding member of J-pop/rock band Monkey Majik with his older brother Maynard....

Peru on a Plate: Exploring South America's Culinary Capital - Food, Wine & Travel

While Machu Picchu tops Peru’s list of most-visited destinations, for food lovers, some of the most remarkable experiences in this culinary heartland of the Americas come on a plate, not on the Inca Trail.


Start in the capital Lima, a lively, arty, and historic city of more than 11 million people on the Pacific Ocean. From street food to Michelin stars, Lima earns its crown as the country’s capital of gastronomy.


Then move 650 miles inland and south to Peru’s second-biggest city, Arequipa....

A Different Kind of Heated Rivalry: Montreal Challenges NYC in Bagel Battle

In a frosty time for Canada-U.S. relations, Tourisme Montréal brought some good-natured heated rivalry to a travel conference in New York last month.
Emili Bellefleur and Martine Venne of Tourisme Montréal, the city’s destination marketing agency, wore sweatshirts with the slogan: “Montréal bagels are better than New York’s” at IMM, North America’s largest travel industry-media marketplace.
As they hoped, the shirts from Toronto-based leisurewear brand Province of Canada got people talking at th...

At Victoria’s Fairmont Empress Hotel, an Icon Is Reborn

Ten years after last call at The Bengal Lounge in Victoria, the legendary Indian-themed cocktail bar at the Fairmont Empress Hotel is back with a shorter name and a contemporary makeover.
Now called The Bengal, the 1,700-square-foot space opened in December as a breakfast room.
A dinner service is added while Q at the Fairmont Empress bar and restaurant undergoes a makeover. When the renovation is completed this spring, The Bengal will continue as a breakfast venue. In the evening it will be Vic...

An expedition cruise in the Northwest Passage became more than just a vacation

It takes two words to clear a shipboard dining room: “Polar bear.”

The lunchtime loudspeaker announcement from Adventure Canada expedition leader Julie Bernier had us scrambling for cameras and binoculars and sprinting toward the decks.

The captain slowed the ship. The polar bear was well away from us, ambling along a rocky beach at the foot of 265-metre cliffs on Prince Leopold Island in Nunavut’s Qikiqtaaluk (Baffin) Region. We excitedly watched it toy with a sealskin. It moved along the sho...

Triple Play in Los Cabos

Variety adds spice to travel life, so make a Los Cabos cape escape a triple play with lively Cabo San Lucas, artsy sister town San José del Cabo and peaceful Todos Santos, one of Mexico’s designated culturally rich Pueblos Mágicos (magical towns).
From Todos Santos to East Cape
Los Cabos — the capes in English — wraps around the southern edge of Baja California Sur, Mexico, the long peninsula that runs down the Pacific coast of the country.
There are lots of “Los Cabos” names he...

Bermuda: A Quick Getaway with Lasting Appeal

Imagine an island with pale-pink beaches and turquoise water, where the limestone houses come in every colour of the rainbow, the sunsets look like cotton candy and the songs of tiny whistling frogs lull you to sleep.


With direct under-three-hour flights from Toronto via BermudAir and Air Canada, you can be in sub-tropical Bermuda in less time than it takes to drive to Muskoka.

The 55-square-kilometre, fishhook-shaped string of seven main islands linked by bridges isn’t in the Caribbean. It...

Step into the world of All Creatures Great and Small in North Yorkshire

I steadied myself against the cow’s rump, felt around inside for the calf’s leg and pulled.It looks so easy when TV vet James Herriot does it on the series All Creatures Great and Small. Although the bovine birthing display at the World of James Herriot Museum in Britain’s North Yorkshire was a replica, the mock delivery still took some muscle.
Like millions of viewers in North America and the U.K., I’m a fan of this gentle rural drama about a 1940s veterinary practice in the fictional village o...

A Storm at Sea, From the Cocoon of B.C.’s Latest Spa

I sat on a low curved bench built into the undulating pink-sandstone walls of the faux cave sauna. As expected, sweat began to slide down my face in the 27-degree heat. But this was not a typical hot-box session.
This sauna had a high-definition video screen embedded in the cave wall. Drone footage of the Utah red desert played, creating thrilling sensations of swooping through striped slot canyons and barrelling upwards to towering rock formations. Haunting music played.
Next, I walked down the...

Chasing Joy in Wales

The Welsh have a word for the rush of happiness that comes from being in a perfectly delightful moment: hwyl. 

It’s pronounced something like “h-oil.” You’ll be forgiven for missing the nuances of the Welsh language, which is big on consonants. Although almost everyone in Wales speaks English, preserving Welsh – the language spoken by about 30 per cent of the country’s 3.2 million people – is a point of pride for the resilient inhabitants of this country on Britain’s west coast. In areas like...

Liverpool Travel Guide: Beatles, Peaky Blinders and Beyond

The inspiration for John Lennon’s dreamy song about a place where nothing is real is indeed a real place. It’s one of the best things to do in Liverpool, especially if you’re a Beatles fan.
There are many ways to connect with the Fab Four in Britain’s fifth-largest city, but the strongest sense I had that I was in the birthplace of The Beatles was beyond a pair of ornate red gates in a suburban Liverpool neighbourhood.
It’s where the Strawberry Field Salvation Army children’s home once stood and...

Manchester Britpop Tour: Where Music Legends Were Born - Food, Wine & Travel

Manchester is popping the cork on a Champagne Supernova 2025. Chart-topping Manchester-born band Oasis has done what seemed impossible, reuniting for a five-month international tour.


Battling-brother frontmen Liam and Noel Gallagher called it quits 16 years ago. But sonic magic has a way of happening in this northwest England post-industrial city.


The city’s symbol is the Manchester worker bee. Tough times motivate Mancs, as the locals call themselves. When the cotton industry collapsed in...

Jasper, Alberta: the spectacular star of the Canadian Rockies

Like most traffic jams, when vehicles get backed up in Jasper National Park, Alberta, expect horns.


But they’re not the kind you think. Wildlife has the right of way in the largest national park in the Canadian Rockies, and these horns are on photogenic groups of bighorn sheep. But with the splendour of the snow-capped Canadian Rockies all around, who could be in a hurry?


“This is their road,” our SunDog Tours bus driver explained, as we stopped for a half-dozen ewes a few minutes from the...
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How did a Canadian reporter end up living in rural Wales?

Toronto-born journalist Nancy Durham spent decades reporting from international conflict zones, from the Balkans to Iraq.
Consider what the opposite of that job might be. How about becoming a self-taught lavender farmer on what Durham calls a “wild, windswept Welsh hilltop?”
Durham didn’t see starting the first commercial-scale lavender farm in Wales as an antidote to the misery and turmoil she’d reported on for years. Yet, that’s how it turned out.
“It was just such a contrast from all the unhappiness in the world to create the farm,” said Durham, 73, via a video link from her cozy cottage kitchen. “But you know, it was all accidental and it’s rolled out beautifully because it gave me yet another career when I was least expecting it.”
How did a Canadian reporter end up living in rural Wales? Durham said in a 2025 profile that “love and adventure” brought her there more than 40 years ago.
She met Canadian-born Oxford philosopher of science Bill Newton-Smith in 1981 at a party in Toronto. That was the love part. Adventure kicked in a couple of years later when she moved to the UK in 1984 to be with him. Durham reported from global hotspots for various broadcast outlets, including the CBC and the BBC.
The couple divided their time between Durham’s London flat, the medieval university town of Oxford where Newton-Smith was teaching and the small farm cottage he owned in Wales near Bannau Brycheiniog National Park.
Durham said her first impression of the cottage was that she was walking into “a wreck.” She was smitten.
“No electricity and candle wax everywhere, melted on everything, because that was how it was lit,” she said. “It was very romantic and very rustic and rugged and gorgeous. And it still is.”
After they expanded the acreage surrounding the hilltop cottage in 2003, they considered raising sheep, the most common use for area farmland.
They went in a more fragrant direction instead. They planted about 3,000 Grosso lavender shrubs along the hillside that year and harvested the first crop the next summer.
The couple were also the first business in Wales to distill lavender oil, using it to make creams and balms for a new business that became Farmers’ Welsh Lavender. The aromatic and minty Gorsso lavender works well in Farmers’ products because it suits everyone, Durham said. “What we do is for men, women and anybody in between.”
When she compares her small yield to the millions of plants at a typical lavender producer in France, Durham affectionately calls Cefnperfedd Uchaf (Welsh for “tucked in behind the ridge) a dinky farm.
Small works for her. With spectacular views across steep green hills and the deep valley from the cottage’s perch 1,100 feet up, who needs a million lavender shrubs to tend?
They didn’t really know what they were doing when they began, said Durham. A $50 book on lavender farming from a Texas grower got them started. The still they bought to extract the lavender oil came with instructions. Presto, says Durham, she could add running a still to her resumé.
“Distilling is an elegant, simple and beautiful process. I did all the distilling initially and still do most of it,” she said.
With input from fellow Canadian journalist and magazine publisher Tyler Brûlé, Durham settled on the simple name Farmers’ for the body care line, with a tractor for the logo.
Durham has a true fondness for her neighbours, the ruddy-cheeked sheep farmers who do hard work on hillside farms. They were the first to embrace what became Farmers’ hand cream when she did a talk on growing lavender at a local pub. The overwhelmingly male audience tried her cream on their faces and hands. They liked it.
“Afterwards, the men came up to me and said, ‘Now my hands don’t smell like silage,’ that frightful, smelly stuff on a farm,” she recalled.
“I had this real aha moment when I came home that night and I thought: Farmers’ hand cream. Why don’t I make Farmers’ hand cream?”
In 2020, she and Newton-Smith bought a two-bedroom cottage in the nearby market town of Hay-on-Wye. They used the time during lockdown to set up a retail outlet for Farmers’ in the attached shop.
Durham has run the farm and business on her own since Newton-Smith’s death in 2023. The body products and dry goods like aprons and bags are made locally. She has a staff of 18, most of whom are part-time. The steep slope means everything is accomplished by hand on the farm, including harvesting, which is done with serrated sickles.
There’s also a resident feline on the payroll, a handsome tuxedo cat named Bandit.
Hay-on-Wye is famous as a “town of books,” and a booklovers’ paradise. There are more than 20 bookshops, most of them independent retailers, along with used booksellers. Each May, one of the world’s biggest literary festivals is held there, with more than 500 events, including talks by prominent authors.
“It’s great. It’s international,” Durham said of Hay-on-Wye and the sophisticated, fun and artsy book lovers that flock there. “You get all kinds of interesting people from around the world.”
The Farmers’ shop fits in well with the town’s indie retail spirit. “This is the flagship. We have a little store on the farm and hold makers’ markets there, but that’s it. I don’t want a chain of stores,” Durham said.
Which isn’t to say Farmers’ isn’t experiencing some top-level success. Guests at London’s legendary five-star hotel The Savoy get a Farmers’ product on their pillow as part of nightly turn-down service.
With farm stays growing in popularity, Cefnperfedd Uchaf farm has expanded to include a shop and café. A moving truck was transformed into a stylish stay, complete with a king-size bed. There’s also a Nordic sauna and hillside pond for swimming.
Belmond, the company that operates the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, brings passengers to Cefnperfedd Uchaf as part of its three-day Britannic Explorer sleeper train journey through Wales. Guests can wander in the lavender fields, stop in the café and even take a dip in the pond on a hot day.
Durham spends most of her time at the farm. There are occasional trips to London. She has a May holiday planned with some friends. Cefnperfedd Uchaf is where she finds joy and plenty of laughter with her neighbouring farmers.
“The town and farm, they’re the family. They are so wonderful,” she said.
In an unsettling time of geopolitical conflict, being a Canadian in Wales carries some cred, especially after Prime Minister Mark Carney’s speech at the World Economic Forum Annual Meeting in Davos in January.
“I had people coming up to me and saying, ‘Oh, it must be wonderful to be Canadian.’ And I’d have to stop and think, what are they talking about? But of course, it was his speech, it had such a magnificent impact around the world.”

Here's where Canadians are travelling this summer

A recent YouGov survey done for Flight Centre Travel Group Canada showed 37 per cent of those polled were prioritizing domestic travel this year. The World Cup is a big domestic summer tourism driver as host cities Toronto and Vancouver welcome some 350,000 fans each.

The event is “an unprecedented opportunity,” Destination BC says, showcasing Vancouver for one of the globe’s most-watched sporting events. Destination BC hopes to entice soccer fans to see places outside the cit...

Pop Rock and Pinot Noir: A Transplanted Canadian in Japan

“I think I’ll be living here for the rest of my life,” says Blaise Plant. He’s not talking about his hometown of Ottawa. He’s referring to his adopted home near Sendai, the capital city of Miyagi in Japan’s northern Tohoku region. Plant is part of a growing winemaking industry in this part of the country, proud to be the first officially licensed Canadian farmer in Japan.

This is not his only job: Plant is also a founding member of J-pop/rock band Monkey Majik with his older brother Maynard....

Peru on a Plate: Exploring South America's Culinary Capital - Food, Wine & Travel

While Machu Picchu tops Peru’s list of most-visited destinations, for food lovers, some of the most remarkable experiences in this culinary heartland of the Americas come on a plate, not on the Inca Trail.


Start in the capital Lima, a lively, arty, and historic city of more than 11 million people on the Pacific Ocean. From street food to Michelin stars, Lima earns its crown as the country’s capital of gastronomy.


Then move 650 miles inland and south to Peru’s second-biggest city, Arequipa....

A Different Kind of Heated Rivalry: Montreal Challenges NYC in Bagel Battle

In a frosty time for Canada-U.S. relations, Tourisme Montréal brought some good-natured heated rivalry to a travel conference in New York last month.
Emili Bellefleur and Martine Venne of Tourisme Montréal, the city’s destination marketing agency, wore sweatshirts with the slogan: “Montréal bagels are better than New York’s” at IMM, North America’s largest travel industry-media marketplace.
As they hoped, the shirts from Toronto-based leisurewear brand Province of Canada got people talking at th...

At Victoria’s Fairmont Empress Hotel, an Icon Is Reborn

Ten years after last call at The Bengal Lounge in Victoria, the legendary Indian-themed cocktail bar at the Fairmont Empress Hotel is back with a shorter name and a contemporary makeover.
Now called The Bengal, the 1,700-square-foot space opened in December as a breakfast room.
A dinner service is added while Q at the Fairmont Empress bar and restaurant undergoes a makeover. When the renovation is completed this spring, The Bengal will continue as a breakfast venue. In the evening it will be Vic...

An expedition cruise in the Northwest Passage became more than just a vacation

It takes two words to clear a shipboard dining room: “Polar bear.”

The lunchtime loudspeaker announcement from Adventure Canada expedition leader Julie Bernier had us scrambling for cameras and binoculars and sprinting toward the decks.

The captain slowed the ship. The polar bear was well away from us, ambling along a rocky beach at the foot of 265-metre cliffs on Prince Leopold Island in Nunavut’s Qikiqtaaluk (Baffin) Region. We excitedly watched it toy with a sealskin. It moved along the sho...

Triple Play in Los Cabos

Variety adds spice to travel life, so make a Los Cabos cape escape a triple play with lively Cabo San Lucas, artsy sister town San José del Cabo and peaceful Todos Santos, one of Mexico’s designated culturally rich Pueblos Mágicos (magical towns).
From Todos Santos to East Cape
Los Cabos — the capes in English — wraps around the southern edge of Baja California Sur, Mexico, the long peninsula that runs down the Pacific coast of the country.
There are lots of “Los Cabos” names he...

Step into the world of All Creatures Great and Small in North Yorkshire

I steadied myself against the cow’s rump, felt around inside for the calf’s leg and pulled.It looks so easy when TV vet James Herriot does it on the series All Creatures Great and Small. Although the bovine birthing display at the World of James Herriot Museum in Britain’s North Yorkshire was a replica, the mock delivery still took some muscle.
Like millions of viewers in North America and the U.K., I’m a fan of this gentle rural drama about a 1940s veterinary practice in the fictional village o...

A Storm at Sea, From the Cocoon of B.C.’s Latest Spa

I sat on a low curved bench built into the undulating pink-sandstone walls of the faux cave sauna. As expected, sweat began to slide down my face in the 27-degree heat. But this was not a typical hot-box session.
This sauna had a high-definition video screen embedded in the cave wall. Drone footage of the Utah red desert played, creating thrilling sensations of swooping through striped slot canyons and barrelling upwards to towering rock formations. Haunting music played.
Next, I walked down the...

Manchester Britpop Tour: Where Music Legends Were Born - Food, Wine & Travel

Manchester is popping the cork on a Champagne Supernova 2025. Chart-topping Manchester-born band Oasis has done what seemed impossible, reuniting for a five-month international tour.


Battling-brother frontmen Liam and Noel Gallagher called it quits 16 years ago. But sonic magic has a way of happening in this northwest England post-industrial city.


The city’s symbol is the Manchester worker bee. Tough times motivate Mancs, as the locals call themselves. When the cotton industry collapsed in...

Jasper, Alberta: the spectacular star of the Canadian Rockies

Like most traffic jams, when vehicles get backed up in Jasper National Park, Alberta, expect horns.


But they’re not the kind you think. Wildlife has the right of way in the largest national park in the Canadian Rockies, and these horns are on photogenic groups of bighorn sheep. But with the splendour of the snow-capped Canadian Rockies all around, who could be in a hurry?


“This is their road,” our SunDog Tours bus driver explained, as we stopped for a half-dozen ewes a few minutes from the...

On an island off an island at the Fogo Island Inn

The best amenity at the Fogo Island Inn, the striking, X-shaped hotel on stilts, is the people of Fogo.
Their stories, heritage and labour are tied to everything at the award-winning inn, designed by Newfoundland-born, Norway-based architect Todd Saunders to echo a traditional outport fishing station.
The address is in the community of Joe Batt’s Arm, population 778, but the inn says its location is “on an island, off an island, at one of the four corners of the Earth.”

In the Great Bear Rainforest, a Wild Visit That’s Gentle on the Land

Snout cresting the water, the sea wolf passed about 20 feet from our 10-passenger boat, swimming strongly for shore from a rock islet in British Columbia’s Great Bear Rainforest.

We had been up before dawn on Maple Leaf Adventures‘ 138-foot expedition catamaran Cascadia, hoping to spot an elusive sea wolf, a rare species whose main diet is seafood. Remarkably, it swims to get it.


We’d had reason to be optimistic. There had been two brief sea wolf sightings the day before while Cascadia’s 18...

Vienna strikes a high note with Johann Strauss birthday celebrations

Vienna is hosting a year-long 200th birthday party for Johann Strauss II, celebrating the composer who gave the Austrian capital its unofficial theme song with The Blue Danube Waltz.

Vienna’s Waltz King has also been dubbed the world’s first pop star. Strauss was a master self-promoter, whose huge catalogue of lively music created fans across the globe.

From its starring role in the opening scene of Stanley Kubrick’s 1968 masterpiece 2001: A Space Odyssey to the final moments of the year when...

New luxury hotel Naturally Pacific Resort Campbell River

Naturally Pacific Resort, a 100-room boutique property located next to the Campbell River Golf Club, could be the “little shining star” that puts Campbell River on the map as a Vancouver Island tourist destination, says general manager Justin Stevens.

The resort opened May 11, in time for the summer travel season.

While outdoor activities have brought visitors to the area for decades, the small Vancouver Island city isn’t the first place that comes to mind for a luxury resort.

“Neither was T

Pop Rock and Pinot Noir: A Transplanted Canadian in Japan

“I think I’ll be living here for the rest of my life,” says Blaise Plant. He’s not talking about his hometown of Ottawa. He’s referring to his adopted home near Sendai, the capital city of Miyagi in Japan’s northern Tohoku region. Plant is part of a growing winemaking industry in this part of the country, proud to be the first officially licensed Canadian farmer in Japan.

This is not his only job: Plant is also a founding member of J-pop/rock band Monkey Majik with his older brother Maynard.

Shaft Cocktail: Uncovering Canada’s Coffee-Infused Icon

When you order a cocktail, you’re probably not checking its birth certificate. But bloodlines matter when it comes to the Shaft.

Victoria and Calgary have been duking it out for more than 25 years over which city launched the legendary quick-sipping coffee drink with a boozy kick.

With cocktail history, there’s a good chance chroniclers have hazy recollections. Dates, names and places can get murky.

Getting to the heart of the Shaft story took time...

Spanish Road to Hog Heaven: Superstar Pigs and the World’s Best Ham

If you’ve never heard of Extremadura, Spain, you’re not alone. But this home of what connoisseurs call the best cured ham in the world (sorry Parma) is a food-lover’s delight and more. There’s a timeless quality to this uncrowded region of tree-dotted pastures; protected areas for hiking, cycling and birdwatching; Roman ruins; peaceful walled cities and hilltop medieval castles.

And of course, there’s the Jamón
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